One of Shin’s hidden formulas involves the "Elastic Reduction Factor" (ERF). For a panty waistband, if your pattern piece measures 30cm, your elastic should measure 27cm (10% reduction). She provides a chart for different elastic widths. Ignore this at your peril—it causes wrinkling.
Do not cut your expensive French lace yet. Shin advocates for a "Calico toile" for underwear. However, calico has 0% stretch. Instead, use a cheap cotton spandex jersey (90% cotton, 10% spandex) with a similar stretch factor to your final fabric. Cut the pieces without seam allowance first, then add a 1cm allowance manually. patternmaking for underwear design kristina shin pdf
Have you used Kristina Shin’s patternmaking system? Share your experience with the lingerie design community below. And remember: A great draft starts with a great reference—respect the IP that builds your skills. One of Shin’s hidden formulas involves the "Elastic
In the vast world of fashion design, outerwear gets the glory, but underwear forms the silent architecture of a wardrobe. However, for aspiring designers and DIY enthusiasts, one significant hurdle remains constant: the lack of accessible, academic-grade resources for drafting intimate apparel patterns. Unlike a standard T-shirt or a pair of trousers, underwear requires an intricate understanding of negative ease, elastic tension, curve manipulation, and delicate fabric behavior. Ignore this at your peril—it causes wrinkling