As A Little Girl Growing Up In Colombia Online

When I feel lost in a gray city far from the equator, I close my eyes and go back. I am six years old. I am barefoot on cool ceramic tiles. My abuela is humming a bambuco . The coffee is dripping. And the whole of Colombia—wild, wounded, and wildly beautiful—fits inside my small, open heart. To have grown up as a little girl growing up in Colombia is to carry a dual citizenship for life: one for the country on the map, and one for the country inside your bones. It is to know that joy and sorrow are not opposites but dance partners. It is to understand that the most revolutionary act is to laugh with your whole body after crying with your whole soul.

As a little girl growing up in Colombia , the world felt both impossibly vast and intimately small. Vast, because the Andes mountains stretched beyond the horizon, and the Amazon rainforest whispered secrets in a language I couldn’t yet understand. Small, because everything that mattered—family, faith, food, and the fierce rhythm of cumbia—happened within a few blocks of my grandmother’s tiled courtyard. as a little girl growing up in colombia

The backyard held a guayabo (guava) tree that sagged under the weight of fruit. My cousins and I would climb it to spy on the neighbor’s rooster, whispering about which one of us would move to “the city” first. We believed Medellín was a fairy tale kingdom and Cartagena was underwater. We weren’t far off. Colombia in the 90s and early 2000s was a complicated quilt. As a little girl growing up in Colombia , I learned early that adults spoke in two tones: one for inside the house, and one for when the news came on. I learned to read the tension in my father’s jaw when he heard a motorcycle engine too loud, too late. When I feel lost in a gray city

I never did. Our house in a small pueblo outside Bogotá had no central heating. It didn’t need it. The cold came straight from the páramo , biting my ears as I walked to school in a navy blue skirt and wool tights. But the cold was a friend. It meant my mother would make chocolate santafereño —thick, with cheese melted at the bottom of the mug and a chunk of almojábana floating like a treasure. My abuela is humming a bambuco

The church bells ring, but half the town is already at the market. I hold my father’s calloused hand. We walk past pyramids of lulos , marañones , and curuba . A woman with gold front teeth yells, “ Mamey, mamey, pa’l amor de Dios! ” At 10:00 AM: My cousin steps on my white zapatos escolares during a game of escondidas (hide and seek) behind the church. I cry. She offers me a bocadillo (guava paste) wrapped in a dried leaf. I stop crying. At 2:00 PM: The whole family gathers for bandeja paisa —beans, rice, chicharrón, morcilla , plantain, avocado, and a fried egg looking up at the sky. The adults drink club Colombia beer. The children drink Colombiana soda. There is no such thing as “kid food.” At 7:00 PM: My great-uncle pulls out a worn tiple (small Andean guitar). My great-aunt yells, “ Ay, no otra vez el mismo vals !” But she sings anyway. We all do.

On Saturdays, my abuela would turn on the radio to Caracol while she shelled habas (fava beans) into a chipped ceramic bowl. I would sit at her feet, my small fingers trying to mimic her speed, and listen to the vallenato accordion weep about lost loves and wayward mules. “This,” she’d say, tapping her temple, “is the map of our soul. Never forget the rhythm.”

And in many ways, she still is. ¿Tienes tu propia historia de crecer en Colombia? Compártela en los comentarios.